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Q. Why does my V-Force with its 700 twin motor get passed in long races by quads with lesser motors?
A. Because the factory primary spring is a "beginner spring" installed by Kawasaki to make the V-Force easy to ride even for beginners. A more aggressive spring and its associated stall would potentially scare off buyers who were not used to it.
Q. What exactly is the problem with the stock spring?
A. It offers almost no stall and causes the CVT to shift much sooner than it should. Picture a rider on a manual quad shifting 1000 RPM's too early in every gear.
Q. What is stall?
A. Stall is the revving of the motor to a certain RPM before the belt engages and the quad moves. Some springs offer instant engagement while drag race spring may stall over 5000 RPM's.
Q. Do I need a spring with some stall?
A. You do if you want to win a drag race, even a friendly one against your buddies. Stall will enable you to break your wheels loose a little instead of standing the front end up and you will get to your max RPM's quicker. If you've ever drag-raced with an automatic car, you know a stall converter is a must, same principle with an auto quad. If you just casually trail ride then you will be more comfortable using a spring with little or no stall.
Q. Will the stall affect my trail riding?
A. If you put in a spring with stall and ride with it for a while, you will hardly notice it after a few rides. If you only try it for one ride, you may think that you can never get used to it.
Q. Can I use a really high-stall spring like some of the Polaris drag quads use?
A. Not if you want your clutch to last. Engagement of the Kawasaki clutch is much harsher than the Polaris'. Also, a spring with too much stall won't let you take full advantage of the massive amount of torque the 700 twin has.
Q. What do the numbers mean that are used to measure the primary springs?
A. Basically the springs are installed on a special scale and compressed to their installed length (the length of the spring after it has been installed in your clutch) and their full travel length (the length of the spring when it is fully compressed) The numbers you get will then give you an idea of what your engagement will be (0 being instant engagement with engagement RPM increasing as the number increases) and what your shiftout RPM (higher number equals higher RPM's) wil be.
Q. What is shiftout?
A. Shiftout is the RPM point where your CVT shifts. Contrary to what many people think, auto quads do shift. Once your motor hits its shiftout point, the CVT will continually shift at that RPM until you run out of gear.
Q. What are shims and what do they do?
A. Shims are large thin spacers that fit under the primary spring effectively making the spring longer. Up to 3 shims can be added before you risk binding the spring. This will increase both your stall speed and shiftout RPM.
Q. What does the secondary spring do?
A. The secondary spring controls the side pressure on the belt and your backshifting (downshifting). A stiffer secondary spring will put more tension on your belt resulting in less slip and will cause quicker backshifting. The tradeoff is that more tension equals more friction that will rob horsepower.
Q. What about the black secondary spring people are using?
A. While it may be helpful to have less belt slip on the Prairies that will be in low range and 4WD often, it is not needed on the V-Force as the stock spring seems adequate.
Q. Can I tune the clutch with different weights?
A. Changing the weights has the same effect as changing the primary spring. Lighter weights equal a stiffer spring and vice versa. Ideally everyone would have many different sets of weights and springs to tune with, but the cost of a set of weights is steep. The solution may be the Dalton adjustable weights. For the price of one set of weights you can add or remove rivets to effectively give you dozens of different weight combinations.
Q. What set of pipes should I get?
A. From all I have read, there is very little difference in the HP of the good brands, therefore looks and sound should be of primary concern. The louder pipes seem to make the most HP.
Q. Why did you choose the DMC Aliens?
A. In my opinion they were the best-looking pipe on the market and TeamGreen has been having good success racing with them. I've yet to see a dyno chart that claims higher horsepower than the DMC's.
Q. Do I need to re-jet when I put on my pipes or modify the airbox?
A. Any time you allow the motor to breath better, there is a possibility that you will need bigger jets. Check your plugs constantly as incorrect jetting will most definitely hurt performance.
Q. How do I re-jet the carbs?
A. Its easier than you probably think. Remove the rubber clutch snorkel and the black trim piece above it. Look under the plastic and you will be looking directly at the carbs. Remove the 4 phillips screws from the bottom of the carb and you will be looking at the main jet in the center of the carb. Remove it with a regular screwdriver.
Q. Where is a good place to buy jets for the V-Force?
A. I buy all of my jets from www.sudco.com. They are cheap and ship fairly quick. Get the jets for the Keihin CV carburetors.
Q. I'm getting backfiring through the exhaust when I let off the throttle, what do I need to do?
A. First, make sure your head pipe connections are tight. A leaking gasket will cause backfiring. If that doesn't cure it, tighten your mixture screws all the way in on both cylinders and then back them each out 3 full turns. If the backfiring continues in one or both cylinders, back the screw out another 1/4 turn at a time until it goes away.
Q. Does the K&N filter help?
A. The K&N will surely flow better than the stock foam filter, plus you can remove the inside screen for even less restriction.
Q. How can I get results as good as yours?
A.
1.) CHANGE THE PRIMARY SPRING
2.) Make sure you are jetted correctly. I check my plugs OFTEN and I'll change the jets 10 times if I need to when I'm tuning. The V-Force seems to be very sensitive to incorrect jetting.
3). Put a good set of pipes on. I was really surprised at the NOTICEABLE power increase the pipes gave.
4) Opening up the airbox, adding an aftermarket filter and jetting way up will easily get you a few more HP.
5.) You MUST be able to launch the V at full throttle. Practice if you need to, but this is very important.
Q. How do you launch the V-Force in a drag race?
A. I give the V just enough throttle to engage the belt and hold on to the rear brake to keep from moving. If you wait until the race has started to hit the throttle, you are losing time due to belt lag and will get too much tire spin. I start way back on the seat and as soon as I get the sign to start, I throw myself over the bars as far as possible to help keep the front end down. On a perfect launch, you will get just a little tire spin and then you will be gone. A tuned auto should ALWAYS get the holeshot.
Q. Anything else?
A. DON'T race on pavement. Combine the torque of a 700 twin with the lack of a swingarm extension and you're never going to be able to keep the front end down. If you can't launch full throttle you're giving away the advantage of the automatic.
Q. Are the green V-Forces really the fastest?
A. Of course they are.
V-Force vs. Banshee vs. Raptor
Dalton Clutch Parts - Frequently Asked Questions
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